Today’s task for Ali Wheeler (Hot Knickers Lingerie designer and owner) involves making a pair of the Jean Knickers in extra small for a local client. As this size hasn’t been made before, an extra small pattern must first be graded from the small size. Ali designs and creates all of her own patterns.
Grading the Pattern
- Using a pattern master and a ruler, Ali grades the extra small pattern from the original small size. This involves scaling up using a series of mathematical measurements.
Cutting the Pattern Templates
- From the graded pattern, Ali creates templates for the different pieces of the garment. Like the gusset and tummy panel.
- This allows her to re-use the templates whenever a client orders a pair of the Jean Hot Knickers in extra small.
- Using a pair of scissors Ali carefully cuts around each of the templates.
Cutting the Fabric
- Ali lays out the Italian and German fabrics that will be used for the different pieces of the garment. In this case a gold satin fabric (polyamide elastane) is used for the outer fabric. A slightly stretchy, nude cotton for the gusset, and a German made flesh power mesh for the tummy panel. All trimmed with golden lace. The Jean Knickers are also available in different fabrics.
- Lining up the templates on the fabric, Ali cuts the fabric using a rotary cutter.
Pinning it and then onto sewing
- With the fabric cut Ali holds the pieces in place by a series of delicately placed pins.
- Now, into back room of her studio, or the machine room. Inside Ali has an industrial over-locker, cover stitch machine, straight stitch machine and a 3 phase zigzag.
- First she overlocks the gusset, stitches the pieces together using the cover stitch and then attaches the lace using the zigzag machine.
Hand Sewing
- With the garment machine sewn, Ali finishes off the garment by hand sewing over the ends of the seams, and snipping off the ends of threads to ensure it is perfect.
Finally, preparing the garment for the client,
- A swing tag is pinned to the back of the garment, with care instructions so nobody has to deal with itchy or printed tags on the inside of the garment unlike some other lingerie companies.
- The product is wrapped in luxurious gold wrapping and placed in an order bag ready for the client to pick it up.
What Now..
- Share this post if you enjoyed it or comment down below. And follow Hot Knickers Lingerie on instagram for more behind the scenes and follow Ali in her studio.
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- The Jean Hot Knickers are available to order now on the website, in gold or black. For bespoke adjustments get in touch using the contact form.